August 3rd, 2012: I woke up today and made the exhausting trip down to the water to fill up all 3 groups droms like a good teammate. Lee cooked us some hash browns with sausage and cheese for breakfast. Breakfast ran late for the need to make the hash browns golden, which I didn’t really care for, and I got a tad cranky. When I don’t eat…. I get cranky, I am fully aware of this. But because I was aware, I was able to maintain my dignity and not express the crankiness.
The others going out on multi-pitches today returned without climbing due to the extreme wind on the mountains, even worse than yesterday. So, we counted gear, gathered it up and headed to South America…or South Africa, I can’t recall. The climbing looked amazing at this crag! We all looked at the topo and chose to set top rope anchors for a 5.7, 5.10b, 5.10c and a 5.11. Rich and I set up an anchor for the 5.10b route. The cliff up top was SO windy, felt like we would just blow right off it! Rich and I worked really well together. Shared our vision, divided the work and got to it, checking in with each other along the way. We made a G.R.E.A.T. anchor! I placed 2 cams and webbing and he slung a rock (BFR). We then of course rappelled on our anchors down to the bottom and I had a bit of a crisis occur.
So, for the rappel, I went first. I had to go about a foot and half OVER the edge of the rock to test my gear (so I am still tethered in and safe, but this move required quite some strength, which I have plenty of). While testing my gear to see if I was all set, the carabiner on my leg loop which was attached to my autoblock (my back up safety in case I should just let go while rappelling) somehow loosened up! It was double backed and everything…so I’m not quite sure what happened! Well, I got MAD nervous and freaked and sounded a bit like this: Karyn: “oh my god… oh my god… my leg loop….” Andrew from the bottom: “You okay up there?” Karyn: “I’m going to die Andrew!! Oh my god….”
Then, Jared’s head pops over the edge of the rock and inquires what my ruckus is all about. I explain it in a very hesitant, freaked out manner, talking fast and probably looking a bit fearful. Jared just looked at me and said, “Karyn, look at me….” (I looked…) “ Relax, if you’re nervous about the autoblock, take that carabiner and hook it to your belay loop. You will be fine.” Of course, it’s Jared…. So I completely calm down, listen to him, and trust that he is telling me the truth (I mean obviously I was safe, I was still tethered in!). Even though changing the carabiner from my leg loop to my belay loop took a lot of effort (had to pull myself up, unclip it, then pull up even higher and clip it again), I knew I was going to be okay, because Jared said I would be. I changed the carabiner and then successfully rappelled down with no problems. I swear, rappelling hates me. And to top it off, I was completely embarrassed by the whole thing. So when Jared finally came down, I could barely look at him out of pure embarrassment. I ran away and he asked what the problem was so I explained it and he comforted me by telling me that even if you know you are safe, it can be pretty nerve racking when gear does something like that. I don’t know how he does it, but he always manages to make me feel better, calm and safe.
After that I had some snacks (a.k.a. lunch) and lead belayed Jared so he could set the 5.7 routes anchor. Due to the joking nature of our relationship, I cunningly asked “you trust me?” as a way to come off as being “gray.” Andrew overheard and inserted that “I don’t know… anyone who says that can’t be trusted.” Jared said he did… so I win! Haha I think I did well… I mean… he didn’t die. Side funny story… Jared needed a buffer for the anchor up top…so he used his sock! HAHA!! How clever.
I climbed the 5.7 while Jared belayed me then I climbed the 5.10a with Rich. The beginning was odd so I let him go after I tried and failed 3 times so that I could see his method. For me, which is different than some other students in the group, I don’t care about watching others do a climb and not getting the onsight send, and I don’t care about getting beta on some of my climbs. I’m here to learn and if I can learn from others, than I’m going to. After Rich succeeded, I tried again and Red Pointed it! I was so proud of myself for not giving up and trying again. There were a lot of tough climbs today. We learned about crack jamming techniques too as two of the routes were cracks (BEAUTIFUL!). Jared showed me how to tape my hands to protect them from gobi’s (cuts). I then tried the 5.11 splitter crack and was so proud to have done about 3 jamming moves!!!!! Again, I don’t have to send every climb (make it to the top). As long as I learned something on the way, then I’m happy. I even bled on the climb!!!
I then tried the 5.10b climb which has a crazy weird overhang. I won’t lie, I hangdogged it a bit on my way through it, but again, so proud of myself that I made it to the top and learned how to climb such a route like this one. I pulled a fist jam and some arm bars too! It was so hard but so worth it. At one point during the day at the crag, I made some sort of joke towards Jared, and he decided he would take off his shoe and throw it at me. Instead of getting out of the way, I let it hit me a bit. HE OWES ME ICE CREAM NOW!!!! =-D It was hilarious. He disagrees that he owes me anything, but hey, a deal is a deal even if it was made a couple days ago.
At the end of the day, I helped Jared with the gear and we packed up and are heading back tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll do another lead climb. Once back and exhausted, we were all sitting in our kitchen when Jared asks if two of us wanted to climb something. I waited at first to give someone else a chance to say yes (something I find I do a lot…again, I sacrifice my opportunities for someone else, is this bad?), and when no one did I stepped up and said sure. Dalton joined and we took a stroll past the tents to a small flat slabby and cracky piece of rock. I belayed Jared as he lead climbed a crack….. well heck! We called it a first ascent! He named it “Afternoon Delight.” Dalton didn’t look impressed since the climb was shorter and on a bit of an angle making it a tad easier and it looked like he wanted to leave. Jared asked if he’d like to complete the slab climb. Thinking it would be easy, Dalton hopped up with his montrail sneakers still on. Halfway up he realized how difficult it actually was and said “I regret his decisions [wearing the montrails] and I’ve decided the name for this one will be “I’m an idiot””. I laughed so hard while Dalton continued to laugh and get through his first ascent. When he descended he was very excited and happy to have a first ascent and he left Jared and I. Jared then let me have my own little first ascent up a crack which I named “Karyn’s Crack of Dreams.” (Yeah.. I know, how original… shut it!!) Then Jared took another run on it to clear the gear. I had a GREAT time! We walked back to the kitchen where I had some couscous and bean tortillas and then relaxed for a while.
Our lesson tonight was a discussion on our articles. We only have 2 days left of climbing and it makes me super sad. I just want to continue to climb and feel relaxed, free, and stress free. Hopefully things will work out and I can somehow have that in my life! The playground is huge here!! I just want to continuously play and never leave this Never Neverland.
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